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Specialty service

Siding & Exterior Finishes

Siding replacement, repair and the water management behind it — the envelope most Wisconsin houses wear.

Single-family home exterior photographed at dusk

Most houses here wear siding, so most exterior work ends as siding work: elevations replaced, openings reframed for new windows and doors, additions tied into existing walls, storm and impact damage repaired. It is less a separate trade than the skin every other exterior scope has to close correctly, and the quality of a remodel is often visible first at the line where new siding meets old.

Southeast Wisconsin houses carry a mix: vinyl on most of the post-war and subdivision stock, aluminium still in place on plenty of 1950s and 1960s homes, cedar and wood lap on older and higher-end houses, brick on a great many Milwaukee bungalows and often brick below with siding in the gables, and fibre-cement or engineered wood where an elevation has already been replaced once. Each fails differently and each is repaired differently, so the first question on any exterior is what is actually on the wall — and what is behind it.

The thing that ruins walls in this climate is water management, not the siding face. Wind-driven rain, snow sitting against a wall, ice damming at the eaves and freeze-thaw cycling all attack the layers nobody sees: the weather-resistive barrier, the flashing over window and door heads, and the kickout flashing where a roof edge meets a wall. That last detail is missing or wrong on a remarkable number of houses, and it is the single most common cause of rot found behind otherwise sound-looking siding. Re-siding is when those details get corrected, which is most of its value.

Partial repair is harder than it sounds, and for an unglamorous reason: siding fades and profiles get discontinued. A vinyl panel matched to a twenty-year-old elevation will match the sample and not the wall, because the wall has had twenty years of sun. The honest playbook is the same as for any patch — finish to a break the eye accepts, which outside means an inside corner, a trim line or a whole elevation, rather than feathering new panels into the middle of a visible face and hoping. Where a true match is not available we say so before the work, not after.

Re-siding is also the one moment when adding continuous exterior insulation is cheap, because the walls are already open to the sheathing. In a heating climate that is a genuine opportunity and it is routinely missed — the crew is there, the siding is off, and the incremental cost of insulating is a fraction of doing it as its own project later. Whether it is worth it depends on what the walls already have and on how the window and door details would need to change to accommodate the added thickness, which is a design decision rather than an upsell.

What this covers

  • Condition assessment of the existing siding and what sits behind it
  • Full and partial elevation replacement
  • Repair after storm, impact and water damage
  • Flashing, weather-barrier and kickout detailing at roof-to-wall junctions
  • Trim, soffit, fascia and corner detailing
  • Continuous exterior insulation where the opened wall makes it worthwhile

Decided in design

Settled before anything is built.

These are the decisions the design and preconstruction stage resolves for this work — while changing the answer is a revision, not a demolition.

  1. What is on the wall and what is behind it, established before a scope is priced
  2. Material decided on maintenance and appearance together — vinyl, fibre-cement, engineered wood or masonry repair
  3. Patch boundaries planned to breaks the eye accepts — corners, trim lines, whole planes
  4. Fade and profile availability checked against the existing elevation before any partial repair is promised
  5. Flashing and water-management details walked at every opening and roof-to-wall junction
  6. Added insulation assessed while the wall is open, including what it does to window and door details

Questions

Answers we can give honestly.

Can you just replace the damaged section?
Sometimes, and it is worth asking for. Two things decide it: whether the profile is still made, and how much the existing elevation has faded. A panel can match the sample perfectly and still read as a patch against twenty years of sun. Where that is the case the better answer is usually to finish at a corner or a trim line, or to replace the face, and we will tell you which before the work rather than after.
What is actually causing the damage?
Far more often than not it is water getting behind the siding rather than the siding itself failing. The usual culprits are flashing over window and door heads, and the kickout flashing where a roof edge runs into a wall — a detail that is missing or wrong on a lot of houses and quietly rots the sheathing behind an elevation that still looks fine. Part of the assessment is finding out which it is, because replacing the face without fixing the cause just buys time.
Vinyl, fibre-cement or engineered wood?
All three are legitimate here and the decision is mostly about maintenance and appearance rather than durability. Vinyl is the least upkeep and the least expensive, and it is what most of the surrounding housing already wears. Fibre-cement and engineered wood hold a crisper, painted look and carry a real repainting commitment later. What matters more than the material is the installation: vinyl needs room to expand and contract and buckles when it is nailed tight, and fibre-cement has fastening and clearance requirements that get ignored. We would rather talk about how it is going on than which brand it is.
Should we add insulation while the siding is off?
It is worth pricing, because this is the cheapest moment it will ever be — the wall is already open and the crew is already there. Whether it pays depends on what your walls contain now and on how the window and door trim would have to change to take the extra thickness. We will lay out what it costs as its own line so it is a decision you make rather than something bundled into a total.
Do we need a permit to re-side?
Often not, but it depends on your municipality and on whether anything structural changes. The City of Waukesha, for example, requires no permit for 1-2 family re-siding and re-roofing with no structural changes. Change the size of an opening and you are in different territory. Since the authorities around here answer differently, we confirm it for your address rather than quoting a general rule.
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